Two hot Columbian men. A sexy 12 table bistro. A BYOB nouveau upscale take on Italian. That's Sergios on a nutshell, happy to say a very tasty one at that. Located in on the border of Clifton and Passaic Sergios is the kind of place you have to be introduced to, otherwise you would easily drive by without the slightest notion of its existence. Lucky for me a long time patron shared his favorite Italian joint with me last Friday nite.The weather was nippy but tolerable which boded well for us since the wait for a table was at least 30 minutes. We shot the breeze with other patrons while peeking at tables as they avail themselves. The interior of Sergios looks more like Kanye West's boudoir shag pad than a bistro in a conservative Latin neighborhood. Crimson walls adored with gilted mirrors, artwork depicting Virgin Mary with a knitting basket, frolicking cherub chandeliers, white muslin curtains drawn back in suggestive promise.
It's dinner - theater. Luckily the staff are seasoned professionals, not men jonesing for a chance to sing or recite a soliloquy from a David Mamet play. These dudes know their onions, and garlic and balsamic reduction...The wine is deftly opened and airs enough for the salad of beet, goat cheese, arugula and honeyied walnuts. Perfect for an early fall nite. The complimentary plate of cured, cracked black Sicilian olives is accompanied by a ramekin of fruity Italian olive oil in which shavings of jalepenos have been swimming. Since when do Italians dig jalepenos? Who cares? the combo is fresh and bites through the salty oil slick of olives.
The owners Sergio and Carlos make the rounds and effusively greet diners. They are partners in business and life, and from the looks of it, make it all work.
Skirt steak in a demi glace wine reduction and Mako Shark in capers, lemon and wine arrive for the main course. Mashed potatoes and a mound of risotto accompany the entrees. And I gotta say, it would be easy to make any of these items passably mediocre. But this kitchen pays infinite attention to the preparation of the fish and meats, even more so to the sauces paired with them. The wine reduction is not a macho affrontery to the fatty steak. Nor does the lemon brine bath overpower the meatiness of the shark.
It's not only the stomach and mouth that are seduced during dinner. A guitarist plays Spanish guitar for the groupie diners. Spanish acoustic guitar is always pleasurable, but this artist throws a curveball to the 40ish crowd, playing odd choices such as A Whiter Shade of Pale, Eleanor Rigby and the more predictable Lady in Red. What a hoot! I request Stairway to Heaven but he abashedly declines, saying these people want music to digest their food, not agitate it.
Lately these days there no such thing as too much chocolate. So I order the dense chocolate mousse pie. My dining companion opts for the Creme Brulee. Meh I'm thinking. Been there, done that. But I am wrong. This Brulee, under the crust of carmelized sugar is WARM. No word other than voluptuousness on a plate. The demi tasse of bitter strong latte rounds out the night.
Sergios Bistro. What you need to know - cash only. BYOB and bring plenty for you will want to celebrate the food these dashing Columbians dish out. Call for reservations but expect to wait nonetheless.
Sergios Bistro
327A Lakeview Avenue
Clifton, NJ 07011
973-772-1655
Open 7 days a week for dinner
Lunch Monday - Friday
