Thursday, August 13, 2009

In a town formerly known as East Patterson

Elmwood Park, formerly East Patterson is trying to distance itself from it's not so illustrious past. Case in point the updated strip of shops on Market Street beckon to a commuter crowd accustomed to city eating. Mulberry's Bar and Grill offers a welcome layer of sophistication to diners jonesing for more than suburban pasta.

The small menu consists of a dozen appetizers, a few salads and a healthy selection of sandwiches. The daily specials could consist of osso buco one day, chicken simmered in wine or a pasta dish.

Standouts starters include quarterd figs atop wisps of proscuitto drizzled with honey. The thinly shaved proscuitto melts in your mouth while the fig adds smokey depth and the honey floral sweetness. Another winner is the goat cheese fritters. Airy goat cheese is lightly breaded and flash fried so the exterior is crunchy but not greasy. They sit atop roughly sliced onions caramelized in oil and vinegar. and a mound of greens dressed in tangy vinaigrette. Not so great are the chicken wings but then this isn't a greasy sports bar and their attention focuses on the more esoteric dishes.

While the specials are always worth a nod, the sandwiches deserve attention as they are composed of pristine ingredients; tuna, rare sliced steak, sweet turkey breast.

The wine and beer lists are limited. Bottles of most domestic beer sare available with a few varieties of wines by the glass and bottle. However the bartenders are innovative with their cocktails and any incarnation of a citified drink is replicable.

Worthy of special note is the chef who takes pride in his creations and pleasure discussing the menu, accepting suggestions with grace.

A welcome attractive venue in Elmwood Park, even though it really is East Patterson.

Mulberrys Bar & Grill
158 Market St.
Elmwood Park, NJ 07407
(201) 475-5700

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